oh to be on the beach

This is a quick preview post as I work on gathering my photos and thoughts together from last weeks trip to Roma. I could go to Rome once a month for a week for the rest of my life and never get bored. Heck, I could live there and soak in the river of pizza and pasta that flows excitedly through the narrow cobblestoned streets. We were only there for three days before we came back to Zürich, but it was a wonderful three days packed with bright sunshine, wonderfully congested streets, bright terracotta-colored buildings, domed churches and lots of different shapes of pasta.

There is no better way to face re-entry into life in Zürich than with a bbq at one of the garden plots nestled alongside the woods, high above the city. The visitor baton passed from my parents to our friends Aude and Rus. Aude is Swiss, but has lived in America since she was a teenager. We met in architecture school and worked together in New Haven. She is here visiting friends and family and one of those friends happens to have one of the garden plots that I have been coveting since discovering them in February (click here to see post).

Memorial Day means summer has really started in the states. People are packing up their cars with picnics, beach umbrellas, towels and friends and heading to the beach. Fly me to Little Compton! Oh please send me to the beach at Warren's Point and to the farm stands along West Main Road. Heaven in the hayfields! Over the past few years we have spent as many weekends in Little Compton with Zach's family as possible. We love the low key vibe and afternoons under the beach umbrella. We are going to miss those weekends desperately for as long as we are living in Zürich, which is why we need to figure out a way to get one of the garden plots on the hill. We spent most of the afternoon yesterday, in between glasses of wine and bites of bacon wrapped sausage, contemplating how we can wiggle our way up the six year (!!!) wait list and get a garden for next summer. What would I grow...certainly strawberries, lettuce, peonies, poppies and raspberries. A lot of what your garden grows depends on what the person before you planted. For example, Aude's friend Jacque has a a plum tree and a cherry tree on his little garden plots, gifts from previous tenants.

It is not a holiday weekend here, but the weather was beautiful and everyone was taking advantage of the sunshine. The water is still cold (and it probably will be all summer) but there were still a lot of people, young and old, swimming.

Here, below, is a little sneak peak of our trip to Rome. I am going to work on pulling together some posts for this week, but for now just a little eye candy.
I think it's impossible to experience Rome the same way trip after trip. Even after living there for a month two summers ago I continually get lost and find myself on unique little streets or in teeny little piazzas that open on to more little streets and piazzas that I haven't been down before. There is so much to explore and so many restaurants and pizza stands to try. It certainly has a very different feeling from Zürich. As a tourist, Rome could keep you occupied for days and weeks or even months, whereas Zürich would entertain you for half a day. Don't get me wrong I love Zürich, but not because it's a great place to visit, but because it's a nice place to live.

I'm wearing my white jeans today in honor of Memorial Day, but this isn't the first time I've worn them. Actually I've been wearing them almost everyday since late April. Since there's no Memorial Day in Zürich I figure it can't be a faux pas to break them out well in advance of the American holiday.

Happy hamburger eating and Atlantic ocean swimming to those of you visiting 'the haus' from the states. Eat some cherry pie for me...and a cheeseburger...and a hot dog...and some ice cream sandwiches!

la piazza e lo stomaco

I've titled this post 'the piazza and the stomach' because that is really what our trip to Sienna was about. We sat in the Piazza del Campo and ate, a lot. Il Campo, as it is more commonly called, is to an architecture student what a first incision or stitch is to a med student. It is a 'wow - amazing -isn't it special - these buildings actually curve to form the semi circular piazza' type of place. Three years of architecture school and 'il campo' will be as frequently heard as 'design' or 'building.' Okay, that might not quite be true, but it is certainly one of the more frequently discussed urbanism precedents. I was expecting to be overwhelmed and I was, sort of. I think somethings are better seen in the dead of winter or at dawn and not during peak tourist season. I can imagine how the space would be breathtaking, but not when I am being overwhelmed by all the wrong things, like pushy tourists, crazy photographers or nightmare tour groups running me over as I peacefully gaze upwards. It was a bit of a zoo, and not in a cute petting fuzzy rabbits way, nah, this was hectic. If you know me, then you know I'm not good in a massive crowd. I would guess Katie and her mom fair better in a mob of people, but even they were overwhelmed. We decided it was best to find a spot to eat and sit and watch the madness instead of being part of the madness. It was the best decision we made the entire trip - a glass of wine, a sausage and peperoni covered pizza, a salad and a giant plate of cheesy pasta made for a lovely view of Il Campo!

That giant plate of pasta was absolutely incredible. I don't think it was cacio e pepe because it was too creamy, but it inspired me to come home and make cacio e pepe, which is just as good and not quite as gooey.
It's too bad we didn't get a view of Il Campo from above, because that is the vantage point from which you really begin to see and understand how the piazza is shaped by the buildings around it. The view from the piazza itself is pretty great too though, especially when you get close to the buildings themselves, instead of simply viewing them from the center of the piazza.
Aside from Il Campo, this was my favorite little view, which we discovered down one of the narrow streets that lead away from the piazza. The image on the right is of the crushed fresh peper for the pepe part of the cacio e pepe.
Cacio e pepe is delicious in its simplicity. Aside from making it for lunch today I made it last week for dinner. When I told Zach what we were having he responded (over email), 'That sounds wonderful. Cacio e Pepe. If it tastes half as good as it is fun to say we're in for a fantastic meal.' It is fun to say, but it's even more fun to EAT!
I know these pictures make it seem calm (and now that I look at them it seems peaceful) but I promise it was crowded, especially on the walkway around the piazza. These people who are sitting in the piazza must have just arrived from Singapore or some other crazy hot as hades place, because it was really hot in Siena, but for them it must have felt cool.
The food! After doing a bit of looking for a spot to sit, we picked a random restaurant that had tables available in the shade. The food was surprisingly good for such a tourist hub. We started out with just salads and a pizza to share, but then we saw someone else's cheesy pasta dish arrive at the table next to us and we grabbed the waiter and ordered one! I mean...'when in Rome'....at least I think that is what my friend Becky says when she is in Rome and eats it every single day for every meal. Seriously she's hooked! Not even a meaty ragu or a peperoni pizza can sway her away from cacio e pepe.
I made cacio e pepe for lunch today. It was the perfect meal to get me excited for my upcoming trip to Rome! I leave tomorrow first thing in the morning and meet my parents somewhere near the Piazza del Popolo. Heaven. I absolutely adore Rome. I lived there for a month during architecture school and could have stayed for an entire year. The history - the architecture - the food - it really doesn't get much better.

Cacio e pepe recipe

- 3/4 lb of pasta. I used buccatini, a thicker version of spaghetti that actually has a hole in it. I like the texture of the thicker shape. But feel free to use spaghetti

- about a cup of the pasta water

- 3 tbsp olive oil

- 1 tbsp butter

- 2 tbsp freshly ground black pepper

- 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano

- 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan Reggiano

Boil your pasta until perfectly al dente. Strain, saving some of the pasta water. While the pasta is cooking heat up the olive oil and butter in a saute pan. Once the butter is melted and the olive oil begins to glisten add 1/2 of the pepper and cook for a few minutes over low heat until fragrant. Pour about 2/3 of a cup of pasta water into the oil/pepper mixture. Allow the water to simmer and then come to a boil. At this point add your cooked pasta in, tossing to coat. You are trying to avoid sticky pasta, so if you need more pasta water then add it in. Once mixed toss in your cheese and the remaining pepper and toss until melted and the pasta is coated. Plate your pasta and sprinkle with more cheese if desired. Eat!

Zach just got home from work and is sitting behind me munching on the leftovers while he waits for dinner (chicken and salad) to cook.
Okay off to check the chicken in the oven and pour myself a glass of wine. I'll be gone all week wandering the streets of Rome and then touring my parents around Zürich. Perhaps I'll be able to sneak another post in one of those days, but if not have a fabulous week!

pretty and delicious

I woke up this morning on a mission to make cacio e pepe for the Siena post, but then I went for a walk. It was just too beautiful out not to. As I was walking along the lake I remembered that the Bürkliplatz farmer's market was in full swing and I hustled my little booty on over. The flowers. Oh. My. Goodness. First off peony season is in full swing over here. They are everywhere - pink, white, magenta, coral - and everyone was buying them. I imagine there are peonies placed in every living room and powder room across Zürich. There must have been thousands. I already splurged on peonies last weekend and I was beginning to think I'd leave the market without any flowers at all, especially since I'm leaving on Tuesday to go to Rome, but then I came across these poppies (?) and I had to have them. Kinda like I neeeeeded the kitchen scale, I haaaad to have them. Besides they were only 10francs. A steal in this insanely overpriced city.

And then there is the cake that I baked when I got home from buying flowers. I'm meeting up with some new friends tonight for margaritas and enchiladas and I was put in charge of dessert. I guess that's what happens when you blog about baking. Duh I was more than happy to bake away and I was actually excited for the opportunity to test out a chocolate cake recipe that I had been eyeing for a while. Everyone needs a go-to chocolate cake recipe - the little black dress of baking - and so I decided to give it a test run for our girls dinner. Girls and Chocolate and Switzerland....I figured it was a good bet. Besides chocolate goes with everything, including margaritas!Chocolate cake and flowers...hmm not sure it get's much better than that on a sunny Friday afternoon. I have been desperately trying to restrain myself from cutting into the cake. It's just sitting there on the table asking to be eaten. You know me, I always post half eaten pieces of cake and piles of crumbs, but I figured I better bring a full cake tonight and not a cake with one slice cut out. After all I don't expect to be served a half eaten enchilada...I wasn't the only one buying flowers this morning. Zürich is generally a very quite and peaceful (read: sleepy) city and it was nice to feel some bustle this morning at the market. I even saw people fighting over a bunch of peonies. And I thought this country was neutral. A fight? oh dear.So this is kind of funny, but the cake calls for curdled milk. Weird right? I'm really not an expert baker and that seemed like a bizarre request - milk with lemon juice - but what do I know I just follow the directions. La di da... lumpy milk into the batter! eek! Zach poured lumpy milk on his cereal yesterday and was less than excited about it. And to think he threw it away when I could have put it in the cake. I do think it's a bit different though...old milk vs. freshly curdled with lemon juice? Is that right? I have no idea, I'll stop rambling now. Chocolaaaaate...mmm. I was a bit hesitant to eat the batter with the lumpy milk, but I did it anyway. Delicious! I love the photo on the upper right of the wrinkled poppy. The petals really are like paper and they are tucked inside that hairy pod for so long, no wonder they wrinkle and thank goodness they do, I love the texture of them. Also, so the cake in the oven photo must have been taken just before the entire thing overflowed and dripped on to the floor of the oven. Great, just great, burnt smoking cake batter on the bottom of the oven. It's a miracle I didn't walk away with the entire bucket full. If I wasn't going to be gone all next week I probably would have.

I have to run to the enchilada party so I don't have time to post the recipe right this minute, but I will post it when I get back. Hold the lumpy milk until then....Okay it's Sunday and I'm back to post the recipe. Let me tell you...those enchiladas were to die for. In a country without mexican they were a gift sent from a texas goodess (my new friend!) anyway ah-mazing. The cake, you ask, how was the cake? Well it was O-K. It was a bit dry, but it was good and if we had ice cream it might have been perfect. That said I'm not sure if I've found my 'little chocolate cake' yet

Adapted from Sarabeth's Bakery

- 1 1/2 cups whole milk

- 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

- 2 1/2 cups all purpose flour

- 1 cup unsweetened 'Dutch process' cocoa powder

- 1/2 tsp sea salt

- 1/2 ounce unsweetend chocolate, finely chopped. I used Lindt 99%

- 10 tbsp unsalted butter

- 1 3/4 cups superfine sugar

- 1 tsp vanilla extract

- 3 large eggs, lightly beaten- confectioner sugar for garnish

Preheat the oven to 350. Butter and flour an 8-10 cup fluted tube pan (to measure the size of your pan, pour water into it. The amount of water you can fit, based on cups, will determine how big your pan is.)Curdle your milk! - combine the milk and lemon juice in a glass bowl or cup and let it stand in a warm place while you prepare the batter.

Sift the flour, cocoa, baking soda and salt together in a medium bowl. Bring 1/2 inch of water to simmer in a small saucepan and turn off the heat. Place a small heat proof bowl into the water and add the unsweetened chocolate that you chopped. Allow the chocolate to melt and help it along by stirring occasionally. Once the chocolate has melted remove it from the water. While the chocolate is cooling beat the butter in the bowl of a standing mixer. After about 1 minute start to gradually add in the sugar and vanilla, continuing to beat until very light in texture and color. Then slowly beat in the eggs. Once the eggs have combined turn down the speed to low and beat in the melted chocolate. At this point begin to add your dry ingredients - in thirds alternating with two equal parts of milk - beat in the flour mixture. Be sure to beat until smooth after each addition. Spoon the bater into your cake pan and smooth with a spatula.

I made two smaller cakes by dividing the batter in half (in a 4 cup pan) so I estimated cooking time and found that roughly 40-45 minutes worked well. If you are baking the whole cake, bake for about an hour. The cake will be done with the top springs back when touched and when the cake tester comes out clean. Allow the cake to cool in the pan for about 10 minutes and then invert and release the cake from the pan. Let the cake sit until completely cool before dusting with confectioner sugar. I wish I could tell you the cake is amazing and perfect and will be my go-to little chocolate cake, but I haven't tried it yet. Perhaps when I post the recipe I will up date you on whether or not it is good. Fingers crossed it is.Happy Friday everyone! I hope you all have fun weekend plans. Not really sure what we are up to, but perhaps we'll go on that hike we've been talking about for the past month. If the cake is good, it will be coming along with us for a snack. See chocolate really does go with everything, even hiking. I guess the Swiss are masters at both, hiking and chocolate. Have I mentioned that the Swiss national past time is walking. Seriously, it is!

auf wiedersehen

for the love of the alps

I still have one more Tuscan post in the works, but I had to have a little intermission for some Zürich photos. After actually calculating the amount of butter in the tart for the post I wrote yesterday, I went for a walk, a long one. Not quite the same as suiting up and spending a week on a whale hunt in Northern, artic-circle-northern, Alaska (check out this photo project it's amazing!), but it will have to do for now. I know I've talked about the Alps and even posted photos of them, but the view of the Alps from Zürich yesterday was truly spectacular, the best I've seen since moving in January. The alps are always there, obviously, but they aren't always visible from the city. On sunny days a thick haze often obscures the view and on winter days the clouds settle into the hills and mountains, giving us only brief glimpses of the peaks if we are lucky. I walk to the lake everyday just to see what the view is like. You simply can't tell by the weather if the view is going to be good or not - torrential rain could mean a fabulous view. Anyway the view yesterday was a wow-I'm-so-lucky-to-live-here type of view. And those little moments, when I realize that I am lucky that I live here help me stay positive when life as an expat begins to wear me down.
I've been having a hard time allowing myself to spend hours on end in the park. It's like waking up late on a weekday and feeling like you haven't accomplished anything by lunch. Being unemployed has it's perks, but it also has it's fair share of blah moments when I feel useless, routine-less, schedule-less, project-less...etc. If I'm outside on a weekday I'm probably walking, but you will see a lot of people just soaking in the sun and the chilly water temps. Zürich's version of the London Eye....ha! This ferris wheel is in Bellevue, but there was one in Burkliplatz a couple weeks ago. I don't think I've ever seen more than three of the carriages occupied at any one time. I've asked Zach for a ferris wheel/bratwurst date, so we've got that on the agenda.
For being incredibly private people, the Swiss love to get naked. I saw my fair share of naked bodies yesterday, young and old, but mostly old. Apparently it's rare for the Swiss to invite you over to their home for dinner, or to make friends beyond their existing social circles, but they are more than happy to strip down in public (lady in the upper right photo.)
As you all know if you've been reading for a while, I love bratwursts. I crave them constantly. Seriously, all the time. It's a freaking miracle I don't eat one everyday (patting myself on the back for having some inkling of self discipline). And wow, the bread that comes with it - gold bürli - is chewy and flakey and crusty all at the same time, and super delicious. Unfortunately, or fortunately depending how much bratwurst you consider safe to consume, Zach does not share my affinity for these creamy-meaty (creamy is a weird word to use to describe meat, but it's all that's coming to mind at the moment) kalbswursts. He likes them, don't get me wrong, but he doesn't want to eat one every night. Even though they are street food at it's finest and are meant to be eaten on the go, I just don't feel right ordering one and sauntering down the sidewalk with a stick of meat, not yet anyway. This means I have to wait patiently and beg for bratwurst dates. Thankfully the Saveur shout out gave me a good excuse for a talley-celebration and Zach agreed to a wurst night. Oh and I have I told you about the mustard yet? The mustard at Vorderer, our favorite wurst spot, is lethal. Too much on your wurst and your brain will burn and you won't be able to speak for at least thirty seconds. It's intense, but oh so good.
Last night we were hungry, and heck it was a celebration, so we ordered a 1/2 chicken to go with our wursts. I mean you might as well when a cooked chicken - breast, thigh-leg - costs less than a single uncooked breast in the super market.
I'm already looking forward to our ferris wheel/bratwurst date. Perhaps I should tell Zach that the ferris wheel is only here through the weekend so we will need to go soon! Or I should find other friends who would like to join me for weekly wursts.